The last of the bisons - Prehistoric Cave Art in France

Within 10 years - if not less - all the major sites where cave paintings can be seen in Europe will be closed to the public. The Lascaux caves are already closed: visitors can see a mock-up of the real thing, but only research workers can visit the original. The same will happen to the other major sites very quickly: already, many are limiting access to small groups a few times a day, to preserve the fragile environment (temperature, humidity) in which these extraordinary artworks survive.

The cave complex at Niaux, in the Ariège département in the Pyrenees, is a series of long winding caverns deep in the mountain which is explored in total darkness. Except, that is, for a low-power torch with which each visitor (maximum 20 at a time) is equipped so that he can pick his way over the rubble-strewn floor and glimpse the magnificence of the odd stalactite suspended in the gloom. The cave finally opens out into a central 'room', high as a cathedral with walls as sheer as the Titanic. Suddenly the guide, who is equipped with a high-power torch, turns his light on to one of the walls and a spectacular bison leaps off the limestone followed by another and another. The wall is teeming with game: bison, horse and mountain goat stand out like trophies in a game hunter's library. But ten minutes later it's time to go: we've already been there too long, breathing out CO² and exuding tiny particles of humidity, all poison to these artworks of 12,000 years ago.

Across the valley, in the Cave de la Vache, the guide shows us a cavern where hundreds of Magdalenian families spent the winter feasting on small animals and fish that came up or down the valley: salmon, hare, wild goat, birds. No bison or woolly mammoth: these were unknown in these mountainous regions 12 - 14,000 years ago except as, perhaps, totemic animals invested with a sacred spirit. While the hunter-gatherers ate, unknown artists left their images in the sacred cave of Niaux across the valley.

And so it was in most of southern France at that time. We know very little about who these artists were or why they drew this or that animal in inaccessible caves. But we do know one thing: exposure of these works of art to unregulated crowds of human beings causes terminal damage. Already the most famous cave complex - that of Lascaux in the Dordogne - has been closed to the public and a 'replica' opened in its stead. The other caves have all taken preventive measures to ward off the inevitable consequence: their closure to the public. Niaux lets in only four groups a day; Font de Gaume allows only 8 people at time but experts are already noting the rapid degeneration of certain caves. The writing is on the wall: if you want to see these exceptional artworks then you'd better get over there fast.

FRANCE A LA CARTE, the leading incoming agency in southern France, has a range of escorted and self-drive tours which are partially or totally devoted to the exploration of these caves. They can also devise custom-made tours to include the well-known sites such as Lascaux II and Pech Merle as well as lesser-known sites such as Niaux, Mas d'Azil and Tautavel.

If you prefer combining other pleasures and sights with your cave paintings then consider their 'Dordogne Discovery' package - an escorted tour of high quality which combines visits to a couple of caves with an exploration of the mediaeval villages, castles and monasteries which pepper this beautiful region of France. Or - as we are in France - their 'Live like a Prince' escorted tour which concentrates on French cuisine (there's a cooking lesson included) vineyard visits and tastings as well as cave paintings.

And as this is the South-West of France - a land of traditional cuisine and fine wines - one cannot miss the classic tours of the Bordeaux vineyards which introduce visitors to the City of Bordeaux (recently promoted a UNESCO heritage site) as well as to the great names of Bordelais wines: Margaux, Saint Julien, Sauternes, St Emilion and so on. Here the 'escorted tour' approach comes into its own as guides are expert in both wine and getting in to the best chateaux ahead of the crowd.

If these tours interest you then contact Sylvie on +33 561 120 794 or sylvie@francealacarte.com for details and prices