The answer is to take a four day break in deepest France, into the Quercy countryside south of the Lot river. There, in a unpretentious little village called Lalbenque, a centuries-old traditional truffle market is held every Tuesday afternoon in winter. At the blast of a whistle buyers are allowed to approach the sellers who stand coyly behind their little baskets of 'black diamonds' in the main street. The strange 'tuber melansporum' is examined, deals are struck and large notes change hands: credit cards not accepted.

Tuesday's visit to Lalbenque includes a 'cavage' session in the morning - the art of finding truffles under oak trees using a dog or pig as guide: handy thing to know in Southern France. A truffle omelette at lunchtime and you're all set for the afternoon's haggling.
These tours take place every week in winter - Sunday through to Wednesday. Customers usually fly into Toulouse from where they are whisked to the Quercy in under 90 minutes. That's where the good food, local Cahors wines and chateau life begin.
Escorted truffle and foie gras tour
Self-drive truffle and foie gras tour
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